Крым

Друзья,  наше Крымское путешествие я решила не описывать по дням, а просто поделиться с Вами своими наблюдениями и впечатлениями. Крым, он знаете, хоть и наш, но для каждого свой!  И теперь любой уважающий себя Россиянин просто обязан его посетить сам и желательно еще успеть  таким, каким увидели его мы и каким я его объективно постараюсь описать.

Итак,  первое наблюдение – не все рады, что Крым наш! Чиновники совсем не рады. Одну часть чиновников уволили к чертям, а вторую видите ли заставили работать. Русские законы осваивать, все переделывать и взятки вдобавок брать страшно, хоть с голоду ложись помирай! Но ложиться нельзя – работать надо!

А работать Крымский народ не любит. Это второе наблюдение. Особенно коренной народ (как они себя любят называть),  Крымские татары. Я уж точно не националист, и допускаю, что в  любой нации есть умные, приятные и работящие люди, но Крымские татары такого впечатления не производят. Поднимаешься на Ай-Петри и да здравствует батюшка Египет!
— Хочешь на лошадку покатаю?
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Причем на Египетский манер тебя хватают за руки и преследуют по пути просто полчища странно одетых людей. Отключи им всем звук, так по жестам будет звучать только «Дай денег, дай денег, денег дай». На обратном пути с горы водитель татарин всю дорогу рассказывал историю Крыма на татарский лад. Заменив слово русские на слово коммунисты,  жаловался как они угнетали его предков в послевоенные годы. О причинах такого гнета, правда,  предпочел умолчать.

За аренду машины с водителем на 1 день просят 6000 рублей. Я говорю, что за эти деньги авиабилеты можно купить из Москвы до Крыма и обратно. Нет, говорят, мы в сезон за 2 500 рублей только в аэропорт людей возили. Так кончился ведь сезон уже, без работы все одно сидите. Нет,  говорят, за 3000 не согласны работать, сидим без работы и будем дальше сидеть.

Сервиса в Крыму нет. Это не плюс и не минус – это факт. wp_20161006_11_57_47_proОфицианты хамоватые. Готовят долго. Гостиницы  какие- то непромытые с подтеками на стенах,  цветастыми покрывалами и влажным постельным бельем.

Самые лучщие кафе и гостиницы, что попались  нам на пути,  принадлежали либо Питерцам, либо Сибирякам, либо Москвичам. «Пахарям от природы» по территориальному признаку).  Душа была в них вложена, а не только жажда наживы.
Вот мои рекомендации: Отель «Фрегат Санта-Мария», очень уютное и вкусное кафе в Алуште:wp_20161006_12_10_20_prowp_20161006_12_09_43_prowp_20161006_12_18_00_pro

Ох,  что-то я все о плохом и о плохом? Будто и  хорошего в Крыму нет? Есть в Крыму много хорошего, об этом я напишу ниже. А пока напишу о том, что меня больше всего возмутило. 

Это пляжи. Ни в одной стране мира, ни в одном месте я не видела таких грязных и неухоженных пляжей. Ни в Азии, ни в Африке – нигде! И да простят меня все Крымчане, Россияне и патриоты,  но это честный блог и писать в нем, я хочу все,  как есть!  Сельские пляжи выглядят вот так: kopiya-lyubtmovkarybacheЕсли пляж песчаный – он вперемешку с окурками и фантиками, сельские я Вам показала, а городские все закатаны в бетон. В сплошную бетонную полосу, по непонятным причинам воздвигнутую повсеместно прямо по кромке моря.  Очень часто в бетон вмонтирована железная арматура, которая, вероятно, в сезон служит в качестве навеса. Такой «романтичной» картиной, представлен, к примеру,  полностью пляж Алушты. alushta alushtaЕсть исключения, такие как бухта «Ласпи» , дикие пляжи сел Рыбачье и Новый Свет, пляжи при дорогих отелях, но это все же исключения.
Конечно же можно все свалить на туристов – мол приехали и насорили. Или на властей – что не убирают централизованно. Но если ты у этого пляжа живешь, если на него ходят твои отдыхающие, если ты за счет это пляжа существуешь и кормишься  —  так возьми и сам убери. Тут в сравнение сразу вспоминается Абхазия, где власти тоже не убирают пляжи, где отдыхающие тоже мусорят, но пляжи там все чистые.

Один таксист по имени Зика, жаловался, что Украинцы к ним ездили всякие и богатые и средние, а Русские к ним едут только бедные. Зика не знал, что в Таиланде все пляжи заповедники и там даже лежак нельзя поставить, что в Греции, как в деревне у бабушки на пляже травка растет и деревья не пилят. Зика не знал, а богатые и средние  Русские, похоже, знали!

В Крыму все боятся закона о стометровой зоне. Вслух даже боятся это произносить. Это такой Российский закон, который ранее там не действовал. По которому  в 100 метрах от берега должны снести все строения, гостиницы, кафешки, забегаловки, магазинчики,  и превратить то,  что сейчас есть в Крыму в пляж. В пляж с широкой естественной  береговой линией, с местными растениями  и красивой природой, за которой все сюда и едут. А пока вот такая типичная Крымская архитектура:arxitektura arxitetura-2

Если опустить момент с пляжной полосой – природа Крыма – просто потрясающая. Красивые пейзажи, горные дороги, леса. wp_20161003_13_34_10_pro wp_20161004_14_39_06_pro wp_20161004_16_54_36_pro wp_20161005_12_20_39_pro wp_20161005_15_54_50_proЗа короткий промежуток времени можно увидеть, как климат меняется с тропического на степной, как меняются краски, очертания. Одни растения заменяются другими, горы холмами, холмы степями, будто ты не в одном месте находишься,  а сразу в трех странах побывал.

Культурное и историческое и природное  наследие региона – на высоте. За 10 дней мы успели посмотреть по моим подсчетам одну шестую часть. Один Бахчисарай со своими дворцами и скальными городами посмотреть полностью можно дня за 4, не меньше! wp_20161002_16_51_27_proЕсть в Крыму и заповедники и  пещеры и водопады и горные пики. Очень красивые парки и ботанические сады, много музеев. Для паломников  — церкви, храмы, монастыри.wp_20161003_11_02_41_pro Все экскурсоводы, которых мы встречали были супер профессионалами своего дела. Хорошо знали историю и культуру и много такого, чего экскурсоводам и знать не положено. Входная плата за посещение достопримечательностей вполне приемлемая по цене  в среднем 300- 400 рублей против средних 30-40 евро по Европе – радуют и не сильно бьют по кошельку.

Все что растет в Крыму очень вкусное! Помидоры– 25 рублей. Клубника – 200 за кило, гранаты 100. Огурцы – по 40 рублей. Все овощи грунтовые – пахнут вкусно, не то,  что Московские пластмассовые. Кизил,  персики,  орехи, виноград. Все под солнышком выращено.

Общественный транспорт развит очень хорошо и стоит очень дешево. В каждой захолустной деревне есть автостанция  и с нее по расписанию можно доехать туда, куда тебе надо. Машину можно и не арендовать,  а на автобусах путешествовать самостоятельно.

В Крыму я насчитала как минимум 5 работающих предприятий по производству натуральной косметики – масла, гидролаты, цветочные воды, крема. Предприятия конкурируют между собой – поэтому качество товаров на высоте, цены очень приемлемые, а такого натурального состава я уже давно не встречала.

На достойном уровне организовано санаторное лечение. В Крыму свои целебные грязи и воды. Климат, экология, воздух очень чистый.wp_20161003_13_26_53_pro

Вот такой получился наш Крым – неоднозначный. Какой-то неприкаянный что ли. Как необласканный ребенок.
Но все мы понимаем, что Крым «долюбят», обласкают и тогда это будет уже совсем другой Крым. И статья эта уже будет, как история. И будет это совсем скоро!
И поэтому стоит успеть. Успеть посмотреть его таким, что бы потом было с чем сравнить,  и было,  что вспомнить!
А жить, жить очень хорошо)wp_20161006_14_06_33_pro

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